challenge
+5580m/-5560m
ROUTE
1220KM
TIME
15 days
OFF ROAD
75KM
Sylvia
Unpredictable India
I never know what tomorrow will look like. The following questions are in my mind every day before I fall asleep: What places will we discover? Where will we be tomorrow evening? Who will we meet on the road?
Frank looking for the perfect angle
After a few weeks of travelling in the country, I thought I was prepared for the rest of our trip in India. It turns out, I am not prepared for all the eye candy thrown at me. Majestic Forts and Palaces, colourful cities and towns, Hindu and Jain temples everywhere, desert landscapes, men with moustaches and turbans, women in colourful saris - everywhere is beauty.
My mind is overstimulated and it takes time to take everything in. It is tiring to be present and in the moment at all times in India. Nevertheless, it is always rewarding.
Jaipur, the Hawa Mahal, aka the Wind Palace
Jaipur, capital of Rajasthan, is our first stop. We arrive a bit later in the afternoon. The crazy traffic, the day-long headwind and a smallish uphill at the end kill my legs. I am not impressed yet by the city, other than it seems cleaner than the cities we visited so far in Uttar Pradesh. When we are almost at our Airbnb rental, Frank can tell that I need a pick-me-up. He, or more precisely Google, finds a coffee place that makes delicious shakes. That definitely helps me to be less grumpy. A good shower and night of sleep do the rest. Jaipur, also called the pink city, looks beautiful the next day. The old city is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the buildings are painted in a salmon pink colour with white borders. In daylight, this looks nice, in the evening it comes alive when all the buildings are illuminated. It is to be enjoyed from one of the many rooftop restaurants with delicious Indian food.
The Jal Mahal palace in the middle of Man Sagar lake
Amer Fort Palace
Albert Hall at night
Rooftop restaurant, a great place to celebrate…whatever !
As usual, Frank already made a new friend, Nikhil, in Jaipur over Instagram. The next day, Nikhil invites us for lunch to his parents' place. He is a physical trainer and loves cycling. He picks Frank’s brain for hours about training and bike packing while his mom teaches me Hindi. She is a lovely lady wearing a colourful sari.
The thali she cooks for us (typical Indian dish composed of two or three different curries, curd, rice and chapati), is delicious. When she discovers that I love kheer (rice pudding), she cooks it especially for me. We try to have a decent conversation but my Hindi is worse than her English. It costs us both some energy and time to understand each other. At some point in our time together, Nikhil’s mom tells me how proud she is to generate additional, even though small, income for her family by sewing saris. And how happy she would be not wearing saris every day but trousers and clothes like I do. But her husband and son want her to wear a sari at all times, even though neither of them wears traditional Indian clothes. Indian society is not quite ready yet to move into a new direction, a place where women have equal rights than men. I am happy to spend time with her rather than the habitual young male crowd who doesn’t seem to have anything better to do than riding their motorbikes and asking for selfies. Although this is common in Asia, I am still surprised by how many young men are not working and just hanging around with their friends.
Always ready for a photo shoot
For that reason, I look into some data regarding unemployment in India and how women do in the labour market. The unemployment rate in India is around 8%, almost 10% in urban areas. The labour force participation among women in the country, already one of the world’s lowest, continues to slide, according to a joint report by Bain & Company and Google. “If actions are not taken on an urgent basis, then the economic and employment gap between men and women will widen at an alarming rate” the report noted. “As routine jobs become automated, the pressure on women will intensify and they will experience higher unemployment rates.” Besides, women who are actively participating in the workforce are 2.9 times more likely than men to be unemployed, it further added. “By creating jobs, fuelling innovation and furthering investment in health and education, entrepreneurship among women could transform India’s economy and society,” the report noted.
I notice on our way through UP (Uttar Pradesh) and Rajasthan that many people are barely surviving along the road, selling chips and spiced nuts or Pan - a preparation combining betel leaf with areca nut widely consumed throughout Southeast Asia, East Asia, and the Indian subcontinent. It is chewed for its stimulant and psychoactive effects. After chewing it is either spat out or swallowed -. The stands are a metre apart and have almost the same selection. During our two months travelling in India, I have only seen one woman managing a small store like this and another one working as a guide in Chittorgarh Fort. Women are rarely represented in the labour market, other than picking up garbage or, working in the fields. Once they are married and have children, their world seems to get smaller. They are confined to their homes doing chores like cleaning and cooking. If educated, they take care of the progenitor’s education.
Whenever I have the opportunity to meet women, I am impressed by their resilience and their hard work while their husbands seem to hang out. Women seem to work more and harder than men. As a matter of fact, hotel businesses are mostly run by men but it feels like a lot of the younger men working there, hang around most of the time while a lot of things stay unattended. Only a few guesthouses or homestays are run by women. While staying at some of them, we are impressed by their professionalism. What a difference! Firstly, everything is beautiful, cleaner but also more welcoming. They work from early morning until late evening. In hotels managed by a male, we had to wake up the staff sleeping in the dining room for the promised early breakfast. Imagine if this female energy would be used in India? Build a new society where the different genders work together? Learning from each other.
As we go further deep in Rajasthan, the environment and the terrain change from cool/foggy, flat and green to dry/hot and …hilly
In Jaipur, we plan our Rajasthan itinerary. We decide to travel to three destinations by train and bus rather than cycling. We don’t have enough time to cycle all the destinations before the summer heat waves start. So we visit Bikaner, Jaisalmer and Jodhpur in a very relaxing way.
Chillies and lemon on a string are “good luck”. Also, in contact, they distill a smell that keeps the mosquitoes away.
The three cities are very different; Bikaner the most authentic because there are very few tourists. Jaisalmer is known for its beautiful Fort and Havelis (townhouses or mansion in the Indian subcontinent with historical and architectural significance). Jodhpur stood out even more with the Fort overseeing the city. Jodhpur is also called ‘Blue City’. Blue because most houses in the old city are painted in Indigo. In the past, the blue colour indicted that a Brahmin, a member of the highest cast and in the past often a priest/teacher, was living there. The indigo colour is also supposed to be insect repellent, and that’s why a lot of houses are now painted in the same tint. Jodhpur has a nice vibe. It is relaxed and luxurious at the same time and has a trendy scene with great cafes and beautiful shops. My nicest experience is when we sit in the shade of an important traffic intersection, and a man starts to chat with us offering us a cup of tea. He is just happy to exchange some words with total strangers and we are too. India makes you happy when you expect it the least.
Jodhpur, the blue city
Just take the time to sit in the street and wait… for something to happen.
Coton sheets are tainted and dry in the sun
Back in Jaipur, we are impatient to get back on our bicycles. We miss the freedom and surprises on the road. And we are not disappointed. As soon as we leave Jaipur we notice thousands of people walking on the highway. In small or big groups, just women or men, families, on bicycles, grandfathers who push their grandchildren in a cart, a huge mass of people moving towards Ajmer to celebrate India’s biggest Muslim Fair, called URS. Thousands of Muslims will meet in Ajmer for an annual six-day celebration, coming as far as Turkey, Morocco or like Sabir, a pilgrim from Calcutta, who walked 1600 km from his hometown to Ajmer. There are checkpoints with food and water on the road or small pickup trucks to feed or ‘rescue’ tired pilgrims. People walk bare-feet, limping with feet full of blisters, small and big children, apathetic, following their parents. What does faith make you do? What do these children think? It is an unthinkable experience... a highway full of spirituality and kindness. Here, like for the Megh Mela in Allahabad, I feel a very special energy where, for a moment, everyone is equal. Rich and poor are walking together, sharing an experience that will hopefully not disappoint them.
Memorizing the moment through selfies. We sharing the true value of such moments as much as they do
On the main road to their final destination, it is an amazing organisation that takes place to assist the pilgrims. Vans and trucks are providing food and water every 10km
Green is considered the traditional color for Islam
There is always……
…a better angle
The next stop is Pushkar, highly recommended by Lonely Planet and other travel web media’s. The place is a good place to rest, drink good coffee and eat a pizza if you’re tired of Indian food. To us, it is rather disappointing. We didn’t feel any connection with the people or the place. Unfortunately, it is also the first place where I, as a woman, have a bad experience. Tired and a bit behind Frank, I try to catch up when a small group of young men and one teenager say hello and want to try out my bike. I say no and keep moving when the youngest of them (12-14 years old) runs next to me. He keeps chatting in a friendly way when suddenly he grabs my breast, turns around and runs away. Startled, I look at the other three men, who just laugh and tell me to slab him in the face. Too exhausted, I don’t turn around and keep cycling towards Frank. When Frank discovers what happened, he cycles back to find the guy. Confident we wouldn’t look for him, he had joined again his friends (brothers...?). He is very scared when we trap him between our bikes and when Frank grabs and shakes him. His friends are now scared for him and join us. Some tuk-tuk and car drivers stop asking what is happening. When we explain what has happened, they say he is not from Pushkar but from Ajmer. Does this make a difference? They definitely didn’t want Pushkar to be associated with bad sexual behaviour. When we leave, I see one of the young men of the group explaining the event in Hindi to a by-passer and laughing about it. So I turn around again and rant how bad this is for India’s reputation and that this is not a joke. These young men are educated. All of them, including the perpetrator, speak English. I am not traumatized by this experience, but the look of men in India is definitely different than other Asian countries I have travelled to. There is still a lot to do before women feel safe in their own country.
Indian puppetry is a subject as varied as the many cultural traditions of the Indian subcontinent. Several regional genres make puppetry one of the richest heritages of India.
The next stops are Kumbhalgarh, the second biggest Fort in India, and Chittorgarh, the biggest Fort in Asia and India. We really like Kumbhalgarh which is in the mountains and off the beaten tourist tracks, not so much Chittorgarh. The Fort is in ruins, and it didn’t help that the guide didn’t do a good job and just wanted to sell us prints and drinks to get his commission. The city itself has nothing special. Finding a decent place to eat is also difficult
Kumbhalgarh Fort ramparts are literally surrounding a wild hilly scenery
Ganesh, elephant-headed Hindu god of beginnings, who is traditionally worshipped before any major enterprise and is the patron of intellectuals, bankers, scribes, and authors. His name means “Lord of the People”
As we were cycling leisurely through a remote small village in the country side, a woman ran to us and offered me a welcome flower necklace made of hibiscus flowers. Precious moment!
Drive thru fruit stall
We are happy to leave Chittorgarh and cycle to Udaipur. The small place where we stay, called Hari Niwas guesthouse, feels like heaven. Two sisters and their father take care of the place and it is, so far, the nicest place we have been in India. Deepu and Praya take care of their guests like they are family. The place is spotless and beautiful. It will be hard to leave but we still have a few days to enjoy Udaipur. And before we get to leave, we are excited to celebrate the Holi Festival. What an experience! I hope my photos will speak for itself. It takes a long shower to remove all traces of colour. But the water doesn’t remove the joy of this experience. Thank you, India.
Hari Niwas guesthouse in Udaipur. Such a great place to stay for few days. A 5🌟
Gangaur Ghat - Udaipur
Pichola lake view from the city palace of Udaipur
One of the room in the city Palace of Udaipur
Udaipur, fresh cool air and many lakes make that city a good place for a week break in our journey
Risky photo shoot
The next leg of our trip is compromised by the Covid19. In an effort to escape India before a nationwide lockdown we cycle for three days as much as we can to get to Ahmedabad (State of Gujarat). It feels weird to travel through wonderful hilly and desert-like countrysides knowing that our trip will end soon. I try to take in the moment just like before and most of the time, I succeed. I feel sad to interrupt our trip and scared for my people, but also for all the people we met in India.
When we are looking for a camp spot nearby a village, the school yard is often the quietest and most discreet place. We just need to leave before 9am as school starts at 10am
On the road to Ahmedabad, we camp in a school compound. All the villagers respect our privacy, which is rather rare for Indians. Some of them are just peeking through the gates of the school to catch a glimpse of us. And when kids are entering the compound, parents reprimand them. The only time we see them is when the villagers bring us tea in the evening and the morning. Covid19 has no impact on their hospitality. However, the next day, it is different. Three hotels in a small town have no rooms available...for white faces. By then we know, we better leave India as soon as possible.
When we arrive in Ahmedabad, the manager of the hotel controls our body temperature before the check-in. The next day we look into transport to Mumbai and flights to Belgium or Canada. Air Canada is asking horrendous prices for a one-way ticket to Vancouver while Turkish Airlines is charging 700 Euro for two tickets to Brussels. I don’t like to blame, nevertheless, I will, this time. In the past decades, the Canadian government has often bailed out Air Canada with taxpayers' money. The company should have stepped up and provided cheap flights to repatriate people. Turkish Airlines sold its tickets to everyone at the cheapest price regardless of their nationality. I call this solidarity in difficult times.
School students gathered for the daily prayer, surprised by our unexpected visit
Honored guests
To finish my story on a good note, my last paragraph is about a memorable experience in Rajasthan. When we do a small detour to see a dam, we surprisingly finish up in a school. We are invited to attend the morning prayer with hundreds of students, girls and boys, sitting in line outside the building, on the ground. We are invited to sit in front of them as special guests. Improvised speeches, Q&A, Indian anthem and shared breakfast with the teachers and principals become the most human friendly memorable day of our Rajasthan itinerary.
Bringing inspiration to students hungry to learn and hear about the “outside world”
A last goodbye photo
One question asked by a young male student was if our marriage is an arranged marriage and …we say no. He turns around and looks at his colleagues with a big smile. He obviously doesn’t want to be married to a girl chosen by his parents and not by himself. A few more surprisingly straightforward questions have been asked. Very refreshing! India is a quickly changing country and its youth is its future. I truly trust them to be the change, innovating the country with love for their land and culture with respect for their traditions.
This particular day, like all of them, have been unpredictable and so, the end of this story. The places I discovered and the people I met on the road feed my heart and soul. I hope we traverse the upcoming challenges with a focus on learning and positive changes for our society. A new society…(?)
With, Vipul, our special friendly driver, we leave Ahmedabad at 7am for an 11 hours drive to the Mumbai Airport. There it is another 12h of waiting before one of the last opportunity to sadly leave India. We are turning on hold our cycling touring journey.
Frank
Typical Rajasthani ruban hats
Uttar Pradesh for foreigners, aside from Varanasi and Agra, is not seen as a main touristic state, while Rajasthan is. So, as we leave the green fields that have been our environment for over 4 weeks, we can feel a new excitement for a change. Rajasthan is a synonym for history, desert and ...camels. Something we have not experienced yet. New state but still India. However, something is different. In only a matter of minutes, selfies are not as requested by the people around us. Go figure! No complaint, though.
As we keep riding West, the heat becomes more obvious. Less to none morning fogs and fewer layers on us. Kilometres after kilometres, the landscape becomes dryer and river beds are just rocks and sand. Nights stay cool so, our nights give us a nice recovery.
Rajasthan state is about Forts, Palaces and omnipresent culture
We try to stay as much as we can away from the main roads. A country road can suddenly turn as a dirt road. Maps are not always updated properly showing roads where we find sometimes just a single track. If we are lucky it will take us “somewhere”. Thank you Komoot app for the great work with your vectorial maps. They many times saved our day. Secondary roads can be a single paved lane on which everyone want to stay. Indians like to keep their véhicules clean and shiny. In that battle, cyclists are always those who are giving up. If main Hwy’s are just a different fight for live, it changes the battle and the routine. Rarely for a better at the end… just a change 😉
The style of our journey is changing. Big cities with many sites to visit means longer stays. Cycling becomes more a sort of commute between highlights.
We marked on the state map all the main touristic places and quickly it appears that choices will have to be made - check out our road book page under “The Dirt” tag at the top of this page menu for route details- . Also time-wise, it won't be possible to ride the total distances between every site.
We decide to leave the bikes in the Airbnb we booked in Jaipur for the visit of the “Pink City” and travel by train/bus to go to Bikaner-Jaisalmer-Jodhpur before coming back to Jaipur to resume our cycle journey to Mumbai about another 1000km South of Jaipur. Adding, as we are cycling, a few extra kilometres to detour to more places that we heard, should not be missed.
Albert Hall - Jaipur, Rajasthan
Jaipur, also called the Pink City, is our first big moment in terms of history and architecture. The Pink Palace, the Amber Fort, the market, the palace of the winds and so much more justify ample the 4 days we stay. We quickly feel a different Indian vibe. All the Indian’s ingredients - pollution, noise, chaotic traffic, .... - are still presents but the blend feels different. We do not experience the same oppression as in some other big Indian cities.
Amber Fort
Unfortunate used of elephants to help tourists to reach the main gate of the Fort.
Entire walls covered by a multitude of broken pieces of mirrors forming an amazing mosaic. The mirrors imported from Belgium (!) in the year of 1592. A single candle can light up an entire room.
Nahargarh Fort, a great spot to be at sunset to enjoy the view on the city of Jaipur
The Amber Fort is one of the oldest of the 3 Forts in Jaipur and for sure the most impressive. Originally the capital of Rajasthan, the Fort dates from 1592 and built with red sandstone and marble, on one of the oldest mountain ranges in the world, the Aravalli Hills.
From the outside, the size of it leaves us speechless. But, after we climb the stairs and ramps that take us through the different gates, the beauty of the place takes another dimension. Marble, glasses, a maze of corridors linking one room to another, maze of staircases linking one level to another, the visit can last few hours. We thought the Amber Fort, the curious Albert Hall or the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur were the top of the top but Rajasthan was just starting to tease us.
The Hawa Mahal, the iconic Wind Palace, 1799. Just a wall of windows to enable the royal women to look out over the main street below without being observed.
In the train through the Thar desert
Bikaner is reached at 11:30 pm after 6h in the train. You have not seen India if you have not experienced a train and/or a bus journey. The complexity and the choices between the different travel classes in the trains and sometimes among the buses are like rolling dices on a marble table. You just hope for the best but you know that, whatever you pick, promiscuity will be part of it and it is fine as it is all opportunities to interact with locals...just like cycling.
Making friends in a night train journey
A crappy and miserable hotel to allow us some rest before our day visit in much warmer conditions. Bikaner is not in a hilly area. The Fort is not as stunning from the outside but again with imposing architecture. Bikaner is more about temples and especially Jain temples. All nicer from one to another. It has been a while we have not spent so much time on our feet. A long day of visits and shade hunting that ends at 11 pm at the train station to catch the train to Jaisalmer, the farthest Western destination in Rajasthan, close to the Pakistan border.
A daily visit for locals, between errands, at the temple
A room in Junagarh Fort
The market streets at sunset
Jaisalmer, last stop for the night train at 4:30 am.
Jaisalmer at 4:30 am after 6 hours in a train
Only a few tuck-tuck drivers rushing to meet the few passengers still knocked down by the last few hours in the warm sleeper class. Negotiating rates are difficult in these conditions and the drivers know it. Fair game. More highlights to visit encourage us to book a hotel for a full 2-day visit. Lucky for us, the hotel is very nice for only a few $. Nothing could be nicer, bigger, more stunning than Jaipur experience....we thought. Jaisalmer, the Golden City raises the bar one crank higher.
Since the first day in India and even more so in Rajasthan, we are surprised to see how often Hindu and Muslim cultures find common grounds in architecture, history and lifestyle. Very often, they are blending to form a great harmony. Today, politics seem to change that state. Although people in the street in their vast majority are trying to preserve that peaceful coexistence. We have sometimes the feeling that we are somewhere else, not in India anymore. The vibes are different, the people are different, the culture is different, yet, this is India in all its diversity and richesse.
Jaisalmer city and Fort
Haveli houses
Young veal waiting for breakfast. Cows are sacred and treated as royal pets
We are leaving Jaisalmer, its narrow streets full of life and its majestic Fort that has the particularity to be one of the rare “Living Fort” in the world. A 6h bus trip to Jodhpur, the blue city. We become short of words to describe another majestic Fort, the city with houses painted in blue. The city surroundings give us the impression that India has not done to impress us.
Jodhpur, the blue city. Early morning carts and wheelbarrows used daily by women to collect garbages.
Jodhpur has one of the most beautiful Stepwell in arid areas of India
Jodhpur, the Blue City, seen from the Fort
These 7 days were no less but exhilarating not only by the wonders we have seen but also by the people we met.
Trains can be an amazing experience
Back on the bike and more smiles
So happy to be back on our bikes and to head South. Anxious also to discover what is hidden behind the pencilled dots on our Rajasthan map. About 1200km with all the detours planned and still plenty of time to relax. Our project to go to Mongolia after Mumbai has been already forgotten. Mongolia is among the first, if not the very first, to close the borders in January to protect the country from the now-famous Coronavirus. Every day since the beginning of the contamination in China, we maintain a morning ritual to go through the main Asian media’s to have a clear view of what is happening. These updates, as concerning they are, did not stop us to enjoy our daily rides but forced us to constantly rewrite and replan our itinerary. Many plan B options day by day being swept out because of either flight cancellations or new restrictions. And, if some destinations remain open, we must consider a situation where potentially we could be trapped far from reliable medical support without any exit option.
Thousand of pilgrims being on the road sometimes for months…
..... Millions of people walking along the roads for months sometimes. Covering hundreds of km sometimes in sandals or flip flops. Elderly people, families with kids, solo travellers of all generations. Most fortunates can afford to pay some kind of transports but the huge majority is just....walking or towing/pushing a cart with a few belongings.
Our route from Jaipur to Pushkar unexpectedly turns as an amazing experience.
Pilgrims taking a break, from the 35c
In Allahabad, Uttar Pradesh, we were living, by chance, the famous Hindu Pilgrimage of the Megh Mala (see Uttar Pradesh story).
Now, we are living the Muslim pilgrimage “Urs”, the anniversary of the departure of a Saint. On the day of the passing away of a Saint on a specific date, their admirers, disciples, followers and relatives assemble at the grave of the Saint to obtain spiritual benefit and celebrate the anniversary with rejoicing.
Proud Pilgrims getting closer to the end of their journey on the road.
Thousands of people along a 150km stretch of our shared route were walking to Ajmer, the end of their pilgrimage path. It is mind-blowing to see them restlessly moving, limping with their faith as motivation. We are overtaking them at a lower speed than our usual one. Not only by pure voyeurism but with some sort of respect for their journey. By so, we are seen as one among them. We share and exchange smiles, encouragements, rest moments in shady places. Some are carrying country flags signalling their home places as far as Africa. No word to describe this procession of beings and the conditions of it. And, like what we witnessed during the Hindu Pilgrimage, here again despite de wounds, the fatigue, it was only joy along that Hwy.
Happy pilgrim reaching the end of the path
As a long time ultra-endurance racer, I can not stop thinking about the similarity of our experiences as I am passing the pilgrims moving on a burning asphalt and under 35c. In both situations, we live and go through the same moments: the pain, the stubbornness driven by a goal, a quest for achievement, the injuries, the doubts, the ups and downs in the mood. By pure reflex, at the hottest moment of the day, I offer some water or snacks like I would have done in a race when I meet racers in difficulty.
Am I participating in ultra-endurance events like they take part in these unbelievable and “non-human” pilgrimages? Are we all looking for something that we can not realistically or comprehensibly express in words? For them it is summarized as spirituality... maybe there is some sort of spirituality involved in endurance races too.
For some, it may sound like a crazy behaviour. Understandably. But, are we not losing in our constant quest for comfort and security the fundamentals of human life? The source and the use of our own power to survive. Counting on others to protect us, to decide for us, and ... and at the same time, claiming the right, as a human, to be supported/assisted physically and psychologically in all circumstances. Leading in so many ways, to a total loss of freedom/independence and sense of criticism. We want to be reassured that life, in its global sense, is indestructible but are we helping ourselves to be, or feel, independent or are we counting mainly on others?
Bathing in the Pushkar lake sacred water sweeps off all the sins
Pushkar, the white city, is only a few kilometres from Ajmer the gathering place for the pilgrims. It is mainly a Hindu town surrounding a lake - more like a water reservoir filled up with sacred water.
Pushkar is also a wake-up call episode for us or maybe I should say a reminder.
As we arrive and cycle down in the first town street, kids are waving and welcoming us. Nothing unusual. It is a classic ritual between a cycling couple and locals. A friendly way to express surprise to see us and a cordial response from us. My bike being much heavier than Sylvia’s (inside joke), I am leading by a couple of hundred meters. At a junction, I wait for her. No Sylvia to be seen. Eventually, she shows up and calmly explains. Few kids started to run beside her. As usual, mainly teenage boys having fun trying to run faster than we cycle. One of them manages to reach Sylvia’s breast before running away to vanish out of sight. As she talks to me, I can spot 4 guys walking on the side of the road far behind her. I recognize the description of the youngest who inappropriately behaved. In no time I take off with my -heavy - bike to chase him, Sylvia following not far behind. Scared at first to be caught, our lecture did not seem to impress him a lot. The esquisse of a smile expresses on his face and I drop my bike to shake him hard to make him realize the importance of the situation. People start to stop in the street to witness the scene. At their legitimate questions and our explanations, their only reactions are to say that the teenager is not from Pushkar. (!!)
It has been an isolated case. Maybe because we are travelling as a couple. However, the fact is that rapes and sexism are sticking to the Indian male culture. In Varanasi, we saw street demonstrations blaming the justice and police corruption, the lack of law enforcement towards rapists and harassments. Demonstrators carrying posters with the photo of the 4 rapists in Delhi who have been eventually condemned for their participation in the fatal gang-rape case that has made the international headline a few years ago (2012). The people want justice to be given and they make sure it is been asked loud and clear. The 4 rapists have been eventually hanged end of March 2020.
Rajasthan spoiled us so far and we were really looking forward to discovering it. Pushkar is more of a disappointment than a revelation. The banks of the Holy lake are covered with marble, very few people are bathing to sweep away their sins but we do not feel any spirituality. What we feel is more a touristic orientation. The narrow market streets are essentially orientated to businesses and restaurants for foreigners. In comparison to places we stopped earlier, Pushkar seems dirty, especially around the lake. No garbages but dry and fresh remains of cow shit. We notice and meet many backpackers and “society rebels” who settle down for a few months there. Meditation, Yoga, cheap lifestyle and good dope make the place attractive for some. We do not stay longer than we need.
Pushkar market streets, when tourists are gone, cows are begging for food
From Pushkar, our route takes us through very nice countrysides. Opting for arrival in Udaipur for the celebration of Holi (the festival of colours), we have plenty of time to Zig Zag in ridiculous detours as cyclists, to explore more well-recommended places. It is with a lot of steep climbs in a very hilly and warm region that we reach Kumbhalgarh. Claimed the second biggest fort in India. Hard to believe after what we already saw. UNESCO Heritage tag confirms its reputation. The Fort is, in fact, part of a 35km long rampart- the longest wall after the Great Wall in China- A multitude of temples remain inside the perimeter, fields and small settlements in a mountainous surrounding give the location a very special atmosphere. Very wild place. We walk the numerous trails from one temple to another and climb to the Fort itself from which we can embrace a stunning view.
Awe view from the Kumbhalgarh Fort
The cycling for the next days offers us a few more “interesting” steep climbs with a strong headwind and still temperatures around 30+Celsius. Forests called here “jungle”, are full of birds of all sizes. Peacocks are fighting for the badge of “most entertaining encounters along the road” with the monkeys. Domesticated elephants and camels are not even impressed us anymore.
Ranakpur Jain temple, after a long welcoming downhill, hold our attention for about 30’. Maybe we have seen too many of them.
In the meantime, the Coronavirus continues to make the Asian headlines and we can read the development of the infection. Concerned by the evolution of the disease but also by the “light” way Europe and North America apprehended the situation as it was not their problem....at least through the media. India reports no confirmed cases…yet
About 200km detour to reach Chittorgarh, the biggest Fort in India and maybe the world. For me a big disappointment and a city that brings back to us the sad feelings of an India that we have almost forgotten those last few weeks. Dirty streets, chaotic traffic and pollution.
The flat terrain and again, excellent pavement, with oh surprise, a tailwind allow us to cover the next 250km in 2 days to reach Udaipur with 5 visit/rest days planned until the Holi festival.
On the Hari Niwas Guesthouse website, photos and reviews, leave us believe it may be a great place to stay for a week of “vacation”. The guesthouse becomes our aim. By experience, we know that Asia and so India, photos and reviews do not guarantee you to have something close to your expectations. Asians and Indians have many friends keen to write reviews and convincing tricks to sell you something not special at all as something unique. It is true in stores, accommodations and in the industry of services like tourist guides. The scenarios are well known after a while as they are similar where ever you are in Asia. Yet, sometimes we get caught. Never underestimate their ingenious storyteller quality. It is a game, vital for some of them, and when we fall in the trap we can not avoid smiling at each other. Bummer, “They got us”...again!
We could not dream of a better place to stay for 7 nights. Perfect location, 2 sister-owners working restless hours to make our stay unforgettable, good food, big smiles...to add to a great old town full of life without being overwhelmed, a multitude of lakes all around and inside the city itself, hills all around offering good hikes, a few viewpoints to discover, rich palaces and an altitude that allows a mild climate contrasting with the heat of the last few weeks.
Udaipur Palace
Udaipur, Pichola lake
March 10 finally arrives and we can experience with a minimum of precautions the Happy Holi. My second Holi in India, smaller than the one celebrated in Amritsar a few years ago but as crazy and fun. We just need to keep in mind the risk taken with the virus not yet spread out in India but potentially present with the few newly arrived white face tourists around. The situation in Europe is changing rapidly and a few tourists have been tested positive among tourist groups in Delhi and Jaipur. Leading to suspicion towards all the white faces. Many tourists have cancelled their trips to India so the few present tourists can easily be avoided. But concerns are growing with a few cases ahead along our next destinations.
Very challenging hilly country side around the Gujarat state border but so beautiful…
Our last camp spot…in a school yard. We had no idea it was the end of our journey then
The next 200km are taking us through very challenging terrain. A multitude of hills and short steep climbs are tiring the legs. Hard but a so beautiful ride. We would not have been in a rush to reach what looks like a great place to stay for a week of wandering, it would have been a nice stretch to move more leisurely and explore all the little valleys and settlements. It is the beginning of summer, trees and shrubs are blossoming. A panel of flashy colours increasing the contrasts between dry ground, desperately in need of rain, and green family size wheat fields.
Ahmedabad is a big city with a very modern urbanism touch. It is the last big stop before Mumbai, another 500km farther South.
Within a few minutes, after our daily news updates from the Indian and world headlines, we decide that it is time for us to put our journey on hold. The risk is to be trapped in India or somewhere else while in a stopover on our way back to Canada. The world is closing down offering no plan B. Air Canada proposes tickets to fly back home for a minimum of $4000/ticket (!) A Shameful business opportunism. Turkish Airlines can bring us back to Brussels for $550/ticket.
Since we have a return ticket already booked from Brussels to Vancouver on May 31st, the choice is easily done. After 2 weeks of isolation in an Airbnb, we will be available to support kids and parents in their lockdown new life.
That was the plan In Mumbai.... today we have ended our 2 Belgian weeks of isolation in a country now in total lockdown.
Adjustment, Adjustment...
To be continued...as soon as possible and safely
